Sunday, March 31, 2013

Holy Week in Sevilla


 We woke early to take the bus to Sevilla, an amazing city if you love interesting architecture! The Santa Cruz area where our hotel is located was the Jewish Quarter where winding pedestrian lanes lead you in circles. Our first time out we were instantly lost, but didn’t mind because everywhere you look is worth a picture.



Sevilla’s Cathedral is the third largest in Europe. All Semana Santa processions pass by the Cathedral before returning to their churches. First a Roman structure, then a Moorish temple, the Christians took over the property in the 1400s. The outside is super ornate, the inside WAY over the top.



 

























As we walked around the historical center, we were caught on the other side of the main procession path when a ‘paso’ passed. Shana climbed up on a fence to get a good look.  The gold-leafed, elaborate ‘float’ of Jesus was first, followed by a professional band, the Virgin Mary's float & more musicians. The crowds were intense, we had a difficult time moving in the direction of our hotel once the road opened up. It was a river of celebration, Keith was most uncomfortable in the mass of people. I held tight to Shana until we finally made our way to more open spaces & on to the hotel.



Sevilla’s Semana Santa activities are very different from those we experience last spring in Guatemala. One thing that we had hoped to see were the ‘alfombras’, the colorful creations of sand, flowers, fruit, ect. created in the street before the procession. Sevilla doesn't have this tradition. The streets were covered after the processions with white & purple candle wax. People throw flower petals as the 'pasos' pass by.

Another difference from Antigua, people in Sevilla must pay big money to view the processions up close. Rows of chairs are set up behind barriers which block off auto & foot traffic during the hours before each event.


The traditional costume of the men who proceed the religious float is very spooky. They look like KKK members in tall pointed hats with eye holes cut out and long robes tied with a thick belt of rope. Many of the 'nazarenos' are barefooted.

What beautiful people we saw during our three days in Sevilla. Everyone is dressed up in Sunday best all day long. The women’s traditional dress is all black with a tall headdress draped with a long piece of black lace, very elegant looking.

Thursday, we walked miles, mostly in green spaces away from the crowds. Our favorite spot was Plaza de Espana.

Locals & tourist who are night owls stayed up all night to view the dozens of processions around Sevilla. Since our trio needs a good night’s rest we skipped the main events.





Everything was sealed up tight the next morning as people slept through Good Friday. It was a sleepy day as the rain drizzled on & off most of the day. We did venture out and walked through different areas of the historical center before the rain overtook us and we headed back to our hotel.
  

I went out for two very long walks alone on Friday. I tried to take a 90-minute circular walk that leads one over the river, but 45 minutes later I found myself back at the hotel. My path never got out of the vicinity of our hotel, I was much like a homing pigeon.

        

When I went in to report my lack of success and was given directions to come back with ice cream & chocolate. My next venture was more successful, I went far away, got lost, found my way back with the desired treats. My whole body ached from the exercise of the day! It was perfect!
Modern Sevilla


I even saw a Good Friday procession. 


On Saturday morning, 30 March, we toured the Real Alcazar. What a structure! 

Directly across from the Cathedral the building started in the 1200s is still used as a Royal Palace.

While we didn’t look through the residences in use today, we enjoyed ambling through the ornately detailed rooms brightly decorated with tile, carved wood and stucco formed in Islamic inspired designs.

 






The gardens are massive and beautiful!



We loved Sevilla, the sights and smells~ 
the orange trees in blossom were very fragrant.

We took the train from Sevilla to Cordoba where more architectural wonders await. 
Santa Justa Station in Sevilla

Our apartment in Cordoba is amazing, large & comfortable. We have a kitchen and are excited to be able to cook for ourselves, not that we are sick of sandwiches. Ha! 

View outside our apartment window

We are enjoying our time together relaxing and reading while taking a break from the sightseeing and daily tasks of securing provisions without spending amassive amount of Euros.

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